July 26, 2016

Please join me on our new Blog site!

Hello fellow bra-makers!

I have moved all my blog posts over to our new website and blogsite at

TheFairyBramother.com

All of the blog posts are there, some with new pictures and with easier navigation. For those of you who follow me through Bloglovin',  we already changed our site address in Bloglovin', so you don't have to do anything!

For those of you who follow me here, please go to the new home of The Fairy Bra Mother!

Your Fairy Bra Mother
Beverly

July 25, 2016

National Thread the Needle day

 National Thread the Needle Day  National Thread the Needle Day is July 25th.  This day can be interpreted in different ways as “Threading the Needle” has multiple meanings. I found six different meanings! Practical Meaning Taking thread and guiding it through a sewing needle. Obviously…this is the meaning that counts!  Using sharp scissors, cut the thread at a […]

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July 24, 2016

Open House at the Enchanted Castle!

Open House at the Enchanted Castle! Considering I was an absolute “wreck” the week before, our Open House at the Enchanted Castle Saturday June 25th turned out to be the most fun I’ve had in a looong time! Why do I call it the Enchanted Castle? What else would you call the place where the Magic […]

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Are Your Breasts Getting A Promotion?

Are Your Breasts Getting A Promotion? Breasts are not purely ornamental. As much as you may want to disagree with me on that, your breasts were given one job to do and that job was to feed a baby. Are your breasts getting a promotion in the near future? OK…. maybe your breasts are unemployed at […]

The post Are Your Breasts Getting A Promotion? appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Bra-making Contest – and the winner is…

Bra-making Contest – and the winner is… Wow! I can’t believe all the great entries to our first ever Bra-making Contest!. The judges had a really hard time deciding the winners but here they are! Here are the four categories: best Modified pattern best original Pattern best Use of trimmings best Use of Cut & […]

The post Bra-making Contest – and the winner is… appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Bra-making Contest Entries!

Bra-making Contest Entries! We have chosen the winners of our first ever digital bra-making contest! And you’ve certainly outdone yourselves. We’ve received some amazing photos of some beautiful bras. First I would like to thank everyone who sent photos of the bras you made – I know the timeline was short but you stepped up […]

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Hooray Pink

Hooray Pink Thursday June 23, is National Pink Day. I didn’t make this up, ladies – it’s a real National Day! So Hooray Pink, you are the only colour with a National day of its own! You know I love pink, therefore I am celebrating too by wearing my pink bra and undies! Oh yes, and a […]

The post Hooray Pink appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Boob Camp June 2016

Boob Camp June 2016 You always know when Boob Camp June 2016 is over because you know our Digital Fashion Show is about to start! A glorious line-up of what our students have made over their 5 days with us at Bra-makers Supply, in the heart of the Hamilton fabric district. Usually we start off the […]

The post Boob Camp June 2016 appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Sweet Sixteen Measuring Guide

Sweet Sixteen Measuring Guide Measuring for the Sweet Sixteen bralette pattern is a “new” method of measuring to figure out your particular size. But really the Sweet Sixteen measuring Guide is not that new!  I have been using this method of measuring my own patterns since 1996. It uses the Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) and the Cross Cup (CCW) width […]

The post Sweet Sixteen Measuring Guide appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Sweet Sixteen Bralette pattern

Sweet Sixteen Bralette Pattern If you have even glanced at fashion magazines lately, you will see that there is a new darling in the bra world and it’s hot fashion news right now! Some would say it’s not a bra at all while others are claiming “it’s the best!” Who is this new Belle of the […]

The post Sweet Sixteen Bralette pattern appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine

Hello fellow bra-makers!

I have moved all my blog posts over to our new website and blogsite at

https://www.thefairybramother.com

All of the blog posts are there, some with new pictures and with easier navigation. For those of you who follow me through Bloglovin',  we already changed our site address in Bloglovin', so you don't have to do anything!

For those of you who follow me here, please go to the new home of The Fairy Bra Mother!

Your Fairy Bra Mother
Beverly

...and now, on to the post....

Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine For many years, sewing has been hidden in the closet of the upscale fashion magazines. It’s like anyone who sewed their own clothes was to be pitied, as the poor cousins of the ready-to-wear family. For more than twenty years, I have heard the inevitable  “what do you mean, you sew […]
The post Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

How to Sew Bras with your Feet

How to Sew bras with your feet Did the Title of this post, How to sew bras with your feet, catch your attention? I was hoping it would! Well, did you know that National Sewing Machine Day was June 13?  Can you believe it’s been nearly 200 years already? Where does the time go? But which […]

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When Life gives you Grapefruits…

When Life gives you Grapefruits… Sometimes I hear breasts called different food related names, such as fried eggs, lemons, grapefruits or melons. You get the idea. We can deal with that. When life gives you grapefruits… or even a set of melons, that’s one thing. But what happens if you are blessed with both a […]

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Double Lace over Foam

Double Lace over Foam I have a surprise for you today – not one bra but two bras in different colour ways – double lace over foam! They look completely different from each other but the techniques used to create them are essentially the same Here are the two bras – the yellow lace bra and the […]

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Perfect Panty Gussets

Perfect Panty Gussets Ready to wear does some impressive sewing, like the enclosed perfect panty gussets (we never call it a “crotch”) on a pair of panties. Even inexpensive panties will have both ends of the gusset enclosed like this… Why should we even want to enclose both ends? After all, we see ready to wear panties with one […]

The post Perfect Panty Gussets appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Big Boobs and Soft Belly

Big Boobs and Soft Belly Swimsuit season is fast approaching. In our part of Canada, the Victoria Day weekend is considered by many to be the first for swimming (yes, the water is still cold!) No matter when you start swimming – it’s time to dig out those patterns, shop for some spandex and start […]

The post Big Boobs and Soft Belly appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

National Nylon Stocking Day

National Nylon Stocking Day Break out the hosiery and grab your garter belt! It is National Nylon Stocking Day on May 15. It’s the day we celebrate the invention of nylon stockings, that much is obvious. Today, mostly we wear panty hose, but what did women do before nylon was invented?   Many may not […]

The post National Nylon Stocking Day appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Bust Out the Bras Bra-making Contest

Bust Out the Bras! Bra-making Contest Announcing our first ever – Bust Out the Bras! Bra-making Contest. The Bust Out the Bras! Bra-making Contest is open to all bra-makers, regardless of experience! It is a DIGITAL contest so no bras will have to be shipped to us. Just photos of a bra you have made in […]

The post Bust Out the Bras Bra-making Contest appeared first on The Fairy Bra Mother Blog & Bra Makers Supply.

Almonds and Bulges

I like to make up words for my students so they remember the technique associated with them more easily. (Do you remember what DoGS means?) So when it comes to fitting bras, it’s no different.  So lets’ talk about Almonds and Bulges… In dressmaking, when we need to remove fullness, it is called a Dart.  […]

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July 23, 2016

How to draft a Garter Belt

How to Draft a Garter belt Garter belts were an essential foundation garment – there were no stay-up stockings, nor had panty hose been invented yet. Putting on a garter belt was an everyday activity. Not today. Garter belts have entered the realm of sexy vintage lingerie. Obviously you want one! I’ve seen many patterns […]

The post How to draft a Garter Belt appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

National Nylon Stocking Day

National Nylon Stocking Day Break out the hosiery and grab your garter belt! It is National Nylon Stocking Day on May 15. It’s the day we celebrate the invention of nylon stockings, that much is obvious. Today, mostly we wear panty hose, but what did women do before nylon was invented?   Many may not […]

The post National Nylon Stocking Day appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

July 21, 2016

National Get to Know your Customers Day

National Get to Know your Customers Day The third Thursday of each quarter is National Get to Know Your Customers Day, which means July 21st is all about you!  With the advent of the Internet and big box stores, much of the personal attention has gone by the wayside. Sometimes they don’t even have real people answer […]

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July 20, 2016

Bloglovin’

<a href=”http://ift.tt/29VdrxC my blog with Bloglovin</a> This post is to make Bloglovin’ aware of my new blog site.

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July 18, 2016

Grab your Garter Belt

Grab your Garter Belt Break out the hosiery and grab your garter belt! National Nylon Stocking Day is May 15.   Many may not remember ever hearing the term “nylon stockings”. Varying in color, design and transparency, nylon stockings (also known as hosiery) are close-fitting, elastic garments worn the same as socks.     But […]

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Monday Meme

Monday Meme I feel the same way…how about you? Do you threaten anyone who dares to use your good fabric scissors? Hit LIKE if you do, and SHARE if you know others who feel the same way! #sewing #fabricscissors #bramakers#bramakersupply #mememonday #craftsy #sewyourownbra

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July 17, 2016

Bust Out the Bras Bra-making Contest

Bust Out the Bras Bra-making Contest Announcing our first ever Bust Out the Bras bra-making contest. This is a bra-making contest open to all bra-makers, regardless of experience! It is a DIGITAL contest so no bras will have to be shipped to us. Just photos of a bra you have made in 2016. We will […]

The post Bust Out the Bras Bra-making Contest appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

Big Boobs and Soft Belly

Big Boobs and Soft Belly Swimsuit season is fast approaching. In our part of Canada, the Victoria Day weekend is considered by many to be the first for swimming (yes, the water is still cold!) No matter when you start swimming – it’s time to dig out those patterns, shop for some spandex and start […]

The post Big Boobs and Soft Belly appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine

Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine For many years, sewing has been hidden in the closet of the upscale fashion magazines. It’s like anyone who sewed their own clothes was to be pitied, as the poor cousins of the ready-to-wear family. For more than twenty years, I have heard the inevitable  “what do you mean, you sew […]

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Cloning a Seamless Cup

Cloning a Seamless Cup It is very rewarding to clone a bra you love from RTW (ready-to-wear). You already know it fits. Besides, Cloning a Seamless Cup can save you time and money if you can get the fit on the first try. In order to clone as explained in my blog post here, you need […]

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Cloning a Seamless Cup

It can be very rewarding to clone a bra you love from RTW (ready-to-wear). You already know it fits and cloning it can save you time and money if you can get the fit on the first try. But what happens if you lay out your beloved seamless foam bra and the cup won't lie flat, even with the wire removed?

That means your cup has been molded at the factory and since you likely don't have a molding machine in your garage, you won't be able to duplicate this cup. Or can you? Actually, you can, as long as you are willing to have a seam in the foam. Let's see how to do it. First as I mentioned you have to remove the wire. I measured it against my set of wires and found it to be a 42 regular wire.
Place some see-through drafting paper on a foam core board. You'll also need some pins with heads on them (otherwise they hurt your fingers!) We are going to pin the parts of this bra out to their "pre-sewn" flat shape. In other words, how it looked right before someone picked it up to sew it.

Notice the seam that is at the middle of the bottom of the cup. That's where the seam ends between the back band and the front frame. Usually the seam is more toward the back but in the bra, it is directly under the cup as you might be able to see here. You can feel it as a raised bump along the bottom of the wire line.
We can start by pinning out the back band. I pin on the seamlines (where one fabric joins to another), and all around the outer edges. In the case of pinning lace, I only pin along the deepest valley of the lace and make a (more or less) straight edge.


Once the piece is pinned, I go around the edge with a larger pin (a hat pin or a floral pin is really ideal) to punch the pin marks and leave a nice hole in the paper that you will be able to see once the pins are removed. Then I "sketch" the shape from pinhole to pinhole. Don't try to be perfect at this stage - you just want to create a pencil outline you can see. I also marked the DoGS.
Pin out the bridge. If you removed one wire, make sure you only pin out half the bridge as the second wire will distort the shape of the bridge somewhat. better to pin out half and make the second half an exact mirror image.
Once I finish the band and front frame, it's time for the cups.  I need to find the apex of the cup. Not easy since there's no seam to guide you. Lay the bra on the table and get down at eye level to the bump of the cup. Using a fine pin, move the pin across the cup until it reaches the apex (high point) of the cup, or just until you cannot see the pin anymore. Put a pin there just catching the threads of the cup.
Next, turn the cup a quarter turn and repeat the process. You should have two pins that intersect at the apex.
Now you can decide what style line you want - diagonal, horizontal or vertical.  I folded the cup making sure the fold touches the apex pins and make the cup lie as flat as you can. If there are big bumps you cannot get out, either:

1. you may not have found the apex. The cup should lie flat if the pins are right at the apex.
2. you may have to divide your cup into more than two parts. The more seams you have, the more shaping you can have in your cup. This happens more often on the larger cups or the Omega shaped cups. Seams are your friend!

First I tried a diagonal seam. A diagonal seam starts in the underarm seam, runs through the apex and ends in the wire line seam. Here's what the lower cup would look like in a diagonal cup.

And the upper cup. It's ok, but not really the look I was going for.
The horizontal is not going to work at all. This cup is fairly low in the front and the horizontal seam would end up cutting across the neckline edge. Not a good look as you can see here. Forget that one.
Here's a vertical seam and I chose to run it from just to the inside of the strap running downward. Ah...much better. Here's the shape of the outer cup.
And here's the inner cup...looks good
Now you can pin along the fold to keep the two parts from shifting around. Then pin in the well of the seam to get the shape of the outer cup
And flip the cup to pin around the inner cup. it's actually quite easy!
After all the parts are pinned out and sketched, they should look something like this
Time to true the seams. Make sure the seams that are going to be sewn together match in length and the curves look smooth. This little seam at the bottom cup gets a thumbs up!
Continue until all the seams are trued up. This is where art meets engineering. If two seams are not the same length, I tend to lengthen the shorter one unless the longer one looks weird when I put the two together.
So here I raise the height of the back band. It is quite possible that I didn't pull the back band quite enough when I pinned it out. The back band stretches and the wire line does not, so I am trusting the wire line to be the more accurate of the two.
Finally I make the bridge into a piece I can cut on the fold at the centre front.
Now that I have my seamless bra cloned, I will sew it up out of similar fabrics. In this case, cut & sew foam will be perfect for this bra. I'm even thinking of duplicating these straps.
They have strap elastic, with narrow lace edging along the strap with the raw edge of the lace tucked in behind some fold-over binding. Very interesting! You can see the strap elastic underneath.
Here's the finished bra. In the end, we chose an off-set vertical seam for the client and a peach lace to cover the foam lining. We used fold-over binding along the neckline edge.
So that's how you clone a seamless cup bra. Now tell me...have you tackled cloning yet?













July 16, 2016

Perfect Panty Gussets

Perfect Panty Gussets Ready to wear does some impressive sewing, like the enclosed perfect panty gussets (we never call it a “crotch”) on a pair of panties. Even inexpensive panties will have both ends of the gusset enclosed like this…   Why should we even want to enclose both ends? After all, we see ready to wear panties […]

The post Perfect Panty Gussets appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

Sweet Sixteen Bralette pattern

Sweet Sixteen Bralette Pattern If you have even glanced at fashion magazines lately, you will see that there is a new darling in the bra world and it’s hot fashion news right now! Some would say it’s not a bra at all while others are claiming “it’s the best!” Who is this new Belle of the […]

The post Sweet Sixteen Bralette pattern appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

Sweet Sixteen Measuring Guide

Sweet Sixteen Measuring Guide Measuring for the Sweet Sixteen bralette pattern is a “new” method of measuring to figure out your particular size, but really the Sweet Sixteen measuring Guide is not that new!  I have been using this method of measuring for my own patterns since 1996. It uses the Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) and the Cross Cup […]

The post Sweet Sixteen Measuring Guide appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

July 14, 2016

National Tape Measure Day

National Tape Measure Day On July 14 measuring twice has extra meaning.  It’s National Tape Measure Day.  You didn’t know? Shame on you! The common Tape Measure elevates to an almost Regal Status on this day. Alvin J. Fellows of New Haven, Connecticut made the lives of carpenters, electricians, seamstresses as well as countless other tradesmen and craftsmen […]

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July 13, 2016

Boob Camp June 2016

Boob Camp June 2016 You always know when Boob Camp June 2016 is over because you know our Digital Fashion Show is about to start! A glorious line-up of what our students have made over their 5 days with us at Bra-makers Supply, in the heart of the Hamilton fabric district. Usually we start off the […]

The post Boob Camp June 2016 appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

Hooray Pink

Hooray Pink Thursday June 23, is National Pink Day. I didn’t make this up, ladies – it’s a real National Day! So Hooray Pink, you are the only colour with a National day of its own! You know I love pink, therefore I am celebrating too by wearing my pink bra and undies! Oh yes, and a […]

The post Hooray Pink appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

July 12, 2016

You know it’s a “thing” when… Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine

Hello fellow bra-makers!

I have moved all my blog posts over to our new website and blogsite at

https://www.thefairybramother.com

All of the blog posts are there, some with new pictures and with easier navigation. For those of you who follow me through Bloglovin',  we already changed our site address in Bloglovin', so you don't have to do anything!

For those of you who follow me here, please go to the new home of The Fairy Bra Mother!

Your Fairy Bra Mother
Beverly

...and now, on to the post....

You know it’s a “thing” when… Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine For many years, sewing has been hidden in the closet of the upscale fashion magazines. It’s like anyone who sewed their own clothes was to be pitied, as the poor cousins of the ready-to-wear family. For more than twenty years, I have heard the inevitable […]
The post You know it’s a “thing” when… Bra-makers featured in Vogue Magazine appeared first on Bra Makers Supply.

July 10, 2016

Replicating RTW – the Seamless Swim Bra

The summer is here! And what better way to celebrate summer than with a custom swimsuit you make for yourself? But can your own hand made suit compare to the suits you buy in expensive shops? YES, they can! Recently a student who was in our Swim Week class brought in a swimsuit she had […]

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Replicating RTW - the Seamless Swim Bra

The summer is here! And what better way to celebrate summer than with a custom swimsuit you make for yourself? But can your own hand made suit compare to the suits you buy in expensive shops? YES, they can!

Recently a student who was in our Swim Week class brought in a swimsuit she had purchased from a website in England. She paid a pretty penny (or should I say pence?) for this suit, not to mention the shipping, customs duty and the HST to get it here as well!
It's interesting enough, and i quickly saw that the bottom part could be made easily from princess version of our Denise swimsuit pattern PB-2901. The top part from just under the bust to the shoulder could be made from the Denise regular version, then the two sections could then be joined with a seam under the bust. In this case the seam also included a band of royal blue fabric with elastic inside.

But it wasn't the outside that was my student wanted help with, but the inside. Let's peek inside to see the interior support system.
This suit had a seamless underwired bra inside the suit. The fullness to accommodate the bust was achieved by gathers at the bottom of the wire curve. So it is seamless and not made from foam.
Want to see how ready-to-wear did this? I am happy to oblige...

First, we compared the wire size to the one in the original suit. Of course, if you know your wire size already, you are ahead of the game here!
Lets look at our Denise pattern again. Trace off the lining pattern piece, as we won't need the darted front. Now mark the position of the wire line on the pattern. The best way to do this is to mark the wire line height when the suit is on the body.
To make the cup pattern, on a separate piece of paper, draw a horizontal balance line with another perpendicular to it.
On one side of the centre line draw a vertical line half the width of the bridge away from the vertical balance line. i show two lines here...ignore that line to the right of the vertical line!
Place the wire down so it touches the bottom line and the centre bridge line, trying to keep the "bowl" of the wire as even as possible.
Draw a 1/4" seam allowance around the wire line. It will likely touch the centre line. I continued the seam allowance straight up as well. You'll see why in a minute!
Measure down on each side to where the vertical arms of the wire start to curve in on the bottom. These will be the areas where no gathering will happen. The gathering will happen between the two notches along the bottom curve.
 Place the cup drawing on top of the lining drawing, matching the marked line on the lining to the marked balance line on the cup paper
 Like this...
Trace the drawing of the wire up to the armhole, and around the strap area and back to the centre front line. Trace a second copy of this shape and set it aside for the frame.
The first tracing is the cup shape, but in a flat form. We will now add the fullness for the bust. Draw lines from the "gathering area" up to the centre bottom of the strap. How many lines? Draw 1 line for each cup size, so a B cup would need 2 lines, D cup would be 4 lines and G cup in this case needed 7 lines. Distribute the lines as evenly as you can between the gathering space.
Cut to the point from the bottom on all lines
To help spread the lines for the gathers, draw two short lines to each side of the strap
Spread the lines 1" part (2.5 cm) measuring at the wire line. You will see the short lines acting as a hinge to allow the pattern to be spread apart
Connect on the outermost point of the dotted seam allowance as shown. This is where art meets engineering to make that bottom curve flow smoothly. It will still look weird though! Continue tracing around the strap.
Here's the finished cup piece, which will be cut on the fold at the centre front. Mark the gathering and no gathering areas and any other marks you may need. The cup pattern is finished so you can set it aside. 

Lets go back to that second tracing and make the frame. Trace off the solid line of the wire , not the dotted line as this was the seam allowance for the cup. We won't need that.

Draw a seam allowance on the inside of the wire line, all the way up to the underarm. Then, draw a horizontal line under the frame drawing 1" down (more or less). 
Connect the top of the wire line to the CF line. The frame could be made from sheer cup lining as it was in the original or duoplex. You need something stable that will stand up to chlorine and dry quickly. Mark the fold line at the centre front.
 Here's the frame cut from sheer cup lining.
Here is the gathered cup in the frame, partly finished as you can see. It's not quite finished but our student had to leave us! We were able to try it on her in a partly finished state and it was going to be a perfect fit!
Here's another look at the interior swim bra.
I hope you give this method of making a gathered seamless swim cup a try and let me know how you do with it. I would love to see pictures which you can share to our Facebook page (Bra-makers Supply - Beverly Johnson) 

July 08, 2016

Bra-making Contest – and the winner is…

Wow! I can’t believe all the great entries to our first ever Bra-making Contest!. The judges had a really hard time deciding the winners but here they are! Here are the four categories: best Modified pattern best original Pattern best Use of trimmings best Use of Cut & Sew Foam Each of the winners of […]

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July 03, 2016

Get Started in Bra-making!

If you are new to Bra-making, here are some blog posts that will get you started! Just click on the link to take you to the individual posts. Don’t worry about losing this page – each link will open in a new window! A Bra that fitsNo matter who makes them, your bras need to […]

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Bra-making in your Pajamas!

ONLINE CLASSES If you are hesitant to start bra-making on your own, why not take an online class with the Fairy Bra Mother herself, in these top-selling classes through Craftsy. Once you buy the class, you can access the class to watch anytime,  forever! The first class, Sewing Bras: Construction & Fit is where to […]

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Alpha to Omega

Hello fellow bra-makers!

I have moved all my blog posts over to our new website and blogsite at

https://www.thefairybramother.com

All of the blog posts are there, some with new pictures and with easier navigation. For those of you who follow me through Bloglovin',  we already changed our site address in Bloglovin', so you don't have to do anything!

For those of you who follow me here, please go to the new home of The Fairy Bra Mother!

Your Fairy Bra Mother
Beverly

...and now, on to the post....

You may have found that you buy a bra only to find that the wire is way out toward your underarm and pokes you? Or after a few hours (or minutes) the wire slides down your rib cage. Often, there is a flat area of fabric next to the wire where the breast does not fill […]
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Wanna see something truly magical?

Not very much in the fabric world is news to me – when you’ve been around fabric and sewing for …well, let’s just say a really long time, you see fabrics come and go. The 50s and 60s were the time for development of synthetic yarns. One of those yarns was polyester and nothing epitomized […]

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Once Upon a Time – the White Vintage Bra

I’ve been doing some blog posts on inside the Craftsy bras, but this time, lets have a look at a vintage bra that a student brought in to me. It is very enlightening to see how far we’ve come! I love seeing how the construction was handled and sometime I clone the bra to see […]

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Behind the Seams – Navy Multiple Strap Bra

Time for another peek Behind the Seams! This time, a close-up look at what I call the Navy Multiple strap bra. This bra was featured in the Craftsy class Sewing Bras: Designer Techniques (I can’t believe there are 30 different techniques in that class!) Before we get to the obvious use of multiple straps – […]

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Behind the Seams – the Ivory and Green Demi Bra

Do you remember the bra from the title card of my second Craftsy class, Sewing Bras: Designer Techniques? It’s a lovely ivory and green demi bra with a big bow at the front. Here’s a reminder. This bra features: demi cup construction short strap tab extensions a full band with raised arch printed fabric! The […]

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Promoting your Breasts to a New Job!

In a previous post, I talked about the job your breasts have been preparing for since your teenage years. When you are pregnant, you may get away with a retro fitted “regular” bra such as the Classic or the Shelley. However once your breasts get the promotion from getting-ready-to-feed-a-baby to their new job of feeding-the-baby, […]

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Promoting your Breasts to a New Job!

In a previous post, I talked about the job your breasts have been preparing for since your teenage years. When you are pregnant, you may get away with a retro fitted "regular" bra such as the Classic or the Shelley. However once your breasts get the promotion from getting-ready-to-feed-a-baby to their new job of feeding-the-baby, it's a whole new bra we are talking about. 

To better illustrate the triumphs and tragedies of making nursing bras, I have some photos and advice of someone (not me!) who has sewn many nursing bras and lived to tell about it. Amber is an American who is now lives in Finland. I first met Amber when I went to the European Bra Summit in 2012 where she spent many days in my classes. She has been drafting bras ever since. For Amber, nursing bras....wait....Amber says it best...

"I'm really enjoying how this bra-making movement has become more mainstream, and more people have access to information!


I remember finding your book on the internet, years ago, and begging for my mom to send it to me for my birthday. I used to read it when I was nursing baby #1, because I was too intimidated to sew anything yet. At 75 euros per nursing bra, I figured that I'd better learn how to make them before we had baby #2. Little did I know I would even want baby #3, or that I would finally master the nursing bras during his nursing...

My Key factors in designing nursing bras:
  • nursing clips. how they are connected to the sling, cup and strap,
  •  slings : to hold the strap down when breast feeding (and in larger sizes to keep the breast mass from falling to the side and out of the bra)
  • and third, the strap: fabric, padded, strap elastic is the most common that I have seen -and not as supportive or comfortable.

Here is my collection of Nursing bras- some from 2012 when I was nursing baby #2, and others that have been made for baby #3, pictured here!

These I wore in the hospital, and days after giving birth. when the milk is coming in and the breasts are engorged. Easy wash and wear. Not particularly supportive but very comfortable, when milk is dripping everywhere. These pictures are taken way after engorgement has gone down- so they look large, but the cups fit when I first delivered.
Based off of the Pin-Up girls pattern- with gathers at the bottom of the cup, and fold-over-elastic for the neckline edges.

Pink Butterfly Lace  based on Pin Up Girls Classic Pattern
​Key features: wide strap tape, split lower cup, ruffle neckline trim, upper cup modified for nursing clip, and folded jersey sling. 

This was the first nursing bra that I really loved, and would put on when I needed to feel special. I used the one-handed nursing clips.
The little ruffle on the neckline is the only drawback- moving it continuously to feed the baby meant that it got trapped under the bra, and it tickles... lol

Here's the sling inside. I finished the edge of the sling with fold-over elastic
Hot Pink Stamped- Pattern Pin-Up Girls Classic
Made from duoplex stamped with fabric markers, Padded straps (so comfortable!)​, split lower cup, upper cup modified for fold-over-elastic and nursing clips.

​Pink& Black Lace Bra 
Drafted with your method I learned in (Stockholm 2012) . It features a horizontal seam and split lower cup, wide nursing clips, fabric straps and fold-over binding on the neckline. Made from Duoplex, powernet, lace & cotton.

​Ivory & Lace Nursing Bra made from Duoplex, powernet & lace.
Lace & powernet upper cup, powerbar modified for nursing clip, lowered bridge. The strap elastic is really stretchy, and the power bar really moves tissue to the front, that I did not accomidate for.
​Ivory Nursing Bra: this one used my drafted cup, which I changed to a vertical seam. Made from Duoplex, cotton & powernet.
 ​ This bra encompasses many of my favorite nursing bra features: Gothic Arch,  a 3-piece cup, cotton fabric straps, 3 X 3 Hook & Eyes, Elastic strap extensions and a folded cotton sling. Here's the bra turned inside out so you can see the sling. There is elastic on the edge of the sling as well as separately on the outside fabric.


Center front channeling overlaps for thin bridge. I've got the bra inside out so you can see the overlap.
I made ​short tube straps to connect nursing clips

My bra making confidence has definitely benefited from all the things I've learned in the last year and a half. Thank you for offering to share that with other people, so that they can have some examples to look at and see!"

Well done, Amber! Thank you sew much for letting us see these. You have done an amazing job. I can see the progress in these bras and the latest ones are truly professional quality!